Jonathan Cohen Debuts New J. Mendel Collection

The designer presents his first Spring 2027 ready-to-wear show for the historic fashion house at One World Trade Center.

Updated on Oct. 22, 2026 in Fashion

Bold vector editorial illustration of a sewing needle and fabric spool, representing high-fashion design and garment construction. — Creative director Jonathan Cohen debuted his first Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection for J. Mendel on Tuesday in New York City. AI Illustration. Upload story photo >

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Jonathan Cohen has made his debut as the resident creative director for J. Mendel, marking a new chapter for the brand. The Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection was showcased on the 102nd floor of One World Trade Center.

Why it matters

This show signals a shift in creative leadership for the label, which has evolved from its fur-focused origins into a global ready-to-wear presence. Cohen intends to bridge the gap between evening wear and daywear in his new role.

J. Mendel was founded in 1870 in St. Petersburg and later established its New York City presence in 1981. The house officially expanded into ready-to-wear designs in 2002, moving beyond its previous focus.

The players

Jonathan Cohen

He is the newly appointed resident creative director at J. Mendel who is tasked with redefining the house aesthetic.

J. Mendel

This is a historic luxury fashion house that originated as a furrier in St. Petersburg before transitioning to a global ready-to-wear brand.

Gilles Mendel

He is a former leader of the brand who established the New York City operations in 1981 but has not been associated with the label since 2018.

Natalie Portman

She is an acclaimed actress who notably wore a J. Mendel gown for the January 2011 cover of Vogue magazine.

The details

Artisans in the brand atelier utilized specialized fur machines to fuse seams during the construction of garments like the leather jacket. Cohen plans to focus his creative direction on a design philosophy that works backwards from evening wear into daily attire.

The brand was founded in St. Petersburg in 1870.
Gilles Mendel established a New York City branch in 1981.
The house officially introduced its ready-to-wear line in 2002.
Natalie Portman was featured on the cover of Vogue in January 2011.
The Spring 2027 collection was presented on October 21, 2026.

Culture Shift

This collection represents a significant evolution for J. Mendel as it navigates the post-Gilles Mendel era that began in 2018. By bringing in a new resident creative director, the house is positioning itself to modernize its luxury heritage for contemporary audiences.

As the brand continues its operations in New York City, customers may expect shifts in design availability and store collections following this creative transition. Shoppers interested in the new ready-to-wear pieces will be following Cohen's move toward daily luxury.

The takeaway

The arrival of a new creative director suggests a long-term strategy to bridge traditional couture techniques with modern daywear. Collectors should look for how the use of classic atelier methods like seam-fusing translates to a broader retail presence.